Getting rid of dead zones - Printable Version

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+--- Thread: Getting rid of dead zones (/showthread.php?tid=61475)

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Getting rid of dead zones - WOEI - 08.05.2009

Well hello there!

I'm using my new ST290 pro joystick for some weeks now, and although I don't *really* like it I'll have to do with it for a while. Now, apart from the terrible ergonomics, there is one thing that's most annoying: A huge dead zone in the rudder axis, right of center point.

When giving left rudder, everything works great. However, when giving right rudder, I find myself having to twist the stick about 5 to 10 degrees right before it picks up. Is there a way to get rid of this? I know that in IL2 it's possible to adjust sensitivity, but that will apply to both sides, not just the right side.

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- KG64_Cnopicilin - 08.05.2009

Tried to calibrate it?

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- Pirate - 08.05.2009

Sounds like you got a dodgy one, can you return it to the shop? I don't think you can adjust the deadzone on only 1 side. Aside from setting the overall deadzone outside the deadzone on the right side to even it up, you going to be stuck with it.

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- {HVY-E}Jinxx - 08.05.2009

Unfortunately for you, this is a normal problem with ANY joystick that uses Pots (Potentiometers) also sometimes called Rheostats.

They wear down from metal to ferrite contact. First you'll notice spiking and then finally dead zones. You're first task should be to see if the damage is permanent. You'll have to take your stick apart and then take the Pot apart to visually inspect it. If it looks o.k. you can try to put a very thin coat of electrical lube on it, (Vasiline works in a pinch), and test it for function. If it's really bad, you're going to see scaring on the ferrite, usually located on the small pcb board that the wires attach to. If this is the case, take the entire Pot to your local electronics shop:

Fry's
Radio Shack
etc.

Have them test it for it's resistance value and buy a new one. Then solder it back into the stick.
Viola', you're all better.

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