1/72 Go-229 Revell + kit review - Printable Version

+- All-Aircraft-Simulations (https://allaircraftsimulations.com)
+-- Forum: Off Topic (https://allaircraftsimulations.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=275)
+--- Forum: Scale Model Forum (https://allaircraftsimulations.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=279)
+---- Forum: Model Kit Reviews (https://allaircraftsimulations.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=371)
+---- Thread: 1/72 Go-229 Revell + kit review (/showthread.php?tid=74186)

---

1/72 Go-229 Revell + kit review - Serpiko - 26.09.2011


box picture as found in the web

PROS
-Easy to build
-Good fitting
-Nice details
-Internal guns and parts included...

CONS
-...but mostly invisible on the finished model
-No loadout options



THE PLANE

Just like many other German hi-tech secret weapons, the Go229 remains an incomplete project that never went beyond the prototype stage. While experimental "flying wing" gliders and demonstrators had been tested throughout the '30s, creating interest and high expectations, the development of a full military plane was severely slowed down by a series of difficulties, such as the en-course imposition of new engines (requiring the whole plane to be redesigned) and the total loss of the prototype in a landing accident (in which the expert test pilot was killed as well). When the war ended, no other airworthy machines had been completed.
Nevertheless, this "unborn" plane remains a fascinating subject, that might even look anachronistic among its contemporaries, due to its advanced features making it a pioneer in several aspects (tailless design, jet propulsion, unique gear configuration, ejector seat, braking parachute...). So, since we already fly the Go229 in IL-2 1946, you may consider adding it to your WWII kits collection. 8)



THE KIT

This is a Revell release from the '90s (as stated by a molded logo inside one wing). In the box you get three grey sprues and one with transparent parts, all sealed in a plastic bag. Plus, as usual, Revell's classic instructions and a decals sheet.
Sprues are flash-free, showing engraved lines and a good level of detail. There is no choice for the loadout: actually the plane has no pylons nor bomb bays, so it only carries internal guns (a pair of 30mm MK-103 cannons, same as in IL-2 game). They are provided along with their ammo boxes, shells exhausts, and a few pieces featuring part of the internal frame.
Decals and finely printed and provide plenty of stenciling, a detailed gauges panel and serials for two hypothetical planes: "Rote 13" and "Blaue 4", both from JG400.



BUILDING

One thing before we start: while internal cannons and frame parts are provided, they WON'T be visible once the plane is finished. Even with the gear lowered, you'll only be able to see a minor part of the tubular frame through the main wheel bay.
So, unless you're making a diorama showing the plane under maintenance (with unassembled guns and wings), you may choose to just skip the "INTERNALS" step and save some time-work-spare pieces.
Anyway, I've built my model using all pieces, to check every step of construction. Needless to say, it is adviceable that you paint tiny parts while they are still on the sprues.

COCKPIT - The base of the cockpit is molded on the front of the upper side of the fuselage (by saying "fuselage" I mean the central section of the plane), but you need to add a protruding part of the floor, which will also house the front gear leg. I wonder why doesn't it come one-piece with the rest?
Anyway, cockpit components are quite standard (seat, pedals, stick and front panel), with the addition of three frame pieces, one on each side (not exchangeable) and one ahead of the front panel featuring what appears to be the base of the sight. This one shouldn't be fixed too vertical, or else it may later interfere with the windscreen. As I said above, gauges are provided in the form of a detailed decal that can be applied on the (otherwise flat) panel.



ENGINES - Actually, there are no engines, but only their intakes and exhausts.
The intakes are basically two empty cylinders, where you need to insert the relative "hubs" (which come split in halves); then you can put them in their places on the rear paer of the nose piece, where two small pins help them fixing correctly.
Exhausts build up in a similar way, since you have to join the halves of the two cones (they really look like little rockets!), glue them onto the rear fans, and fix them in their slots under the upper side of the fuselage. Unlike intakes, exhausts will remain "open".

INTERNALS - Each of the two MK-103 cannons comes in three parts: the gun itself, the shells ejection duct, and the ammo box. You only have to glue the ammo boxes behind the guns and put them on their dedicated supports on the lower side of the fuselage. Exhausts ducts must be added on the inner side of each gun.
However, as I said above, there's no point in building the guns inside the plane, since you won't be able to see them once the model is done. Even though gun ports come open in the lower fuselage (and there are separate panels for them), you're told to build them closed, for a simple reason: all weapon-ammo detailing is molded on the upper side of the guns, so what you would see from below through gun ports is not worth showing.
The same for other internal parts: you get two tubular frame pieces that will be barely visible only with the gear lowered (and still, almost hidden by the gear itself), plus two pieces featuring the interior of wing roots, whose very nature is to be enclosed once the wings are assembled.



FUSELAGE ANS WINGS - First of all, one warning: even after the plane is assembled, a few "holes" will remain, leaving some undetailed interior visible. Such holes are engine exhausts and, if you build the gear down, the front gear bay. So, before you glue the main body of the plane closed, dry fitting will also help you to decide whether to paint internal surfaces or not. I left them unpainted, you can take a look and judge.
Joining the three parts of the fuselage (top, bottom, and nose) isn't difficult, but you must be careful to make the nose fit at best on the body, with all edges matching properly, since a (little) chance of error exists. Best results are achieved by doing just as instructions suggest: glue the nose onto the lower side first (so you can focus on the lower edge only), then add the top side and check the upper edge.
The broad, thick wings are split in upper and lower halves that match each other without a flaw. And, If you've done a good job with the fuselage, they'll fit perfectly on it too!
You can now add the two panels closing the gun bays. Shells exhaust holes are relatively large, and may possibly serve as receivers for a standing support. Noticeably, the whole structure feels very sturdy and "mishandling-proof".

GEAR - At first, I was tempted to build the model wheels up, in order to highlight GO-229's extremely clean lines. But, on the other hand, the unconventional gear configuration (tricycle with the front leg being the main one) is one of the features that make this plane unique, so it's worth being exposed!
Building the gear retracted only requires you to glue every closing panel in its place (they are 9 in total, 3 for each leg). A fully extended gear takes a little more work, though, since that means a total of 25 pieces! But don't be scared, it almost takes longer to describe the construction of the gear than to actually build it. :wink:
To start, you can build all the tyres, that are split in halves. The two rear legs are quite conventional: you glue the tyre facing outwards on the leg, fix the leg into its dedicated hole in the bay (whose details are molded directly in the fuselage), add the actuating arm and the cowling panels, and the job is done.
Now the front wheel. The main leg itself is the simpler part, since it sticks firmly in its receiving hole, while the tyre is kept in position between the two halves of the mudguard (rotating freely, if you want) and two pins support the front cowling panel. Then there's the extending mechanism: rather than trying to describe it, it's simpler to refer to the pictures. Anyway, all components have small pins and holes that "snap in", providing a great help both in dry fitting and correct placing. In short, it's easier than it looks! Don't forget to add the two open panels on the sides, too.

CANOPY AND FINAL BITS - There's not much left to do at this point. You have to add the straight antenna under the left wing, the pitot tube on the leading edge of the right wing, the rounded antenna behind the cockpit (that needs to be slightly shortened) and the two squared gun muzzles aside of engine intakes. All of these pieces are easily inserted into their dedicated holes.
Time to close the cockpit! As you can see in the pics, I had some difficulties in fitting the windshield properly, but it can be done with minimum adjustments. Instructions only show the canopy in closed position, but it can be glued open as well.




PAINTING AND DECALS

This is a "what if" plane, therefore you should feel free to paint it the way you like! The two paintschemes suggested by Revell are quite similar: both of them feature a splinter pattern on the top side (grey-green for "Rote 13" and brown-green for "Blaue 4"), with a light sky-grey belly and the lower side of the nose painted in yellow.
I painted my model as "Rote 13" following colors indications as reported by instructions... then, once the job was done, I realized that the indications about grey and green areas on the top side were INVERTED compared to the example model that's portrayed not only in the boxart, but also on the same instructions sheet! :-? Oh, well, no need to swear about this anyway. Such is the splinter pattern that the paintscheme is OK this way too, so that's it!
Decals are many, fine and resistant, from tiniest stencils to the huge single decal featuring the borders of the walkable route from the tail to the cockpit (this one, given its size, requires some care). Look at close-up pictures: once the finishing coat is applied, transparent areas are invisible!
Aside of serial numbers, different underwing crosses are provided for the two alternative paintschemes, along with "nose arts" that can be applied above gun muzzles. I like those of "Rote 13", that apparently portray the "Baron Münchhausen" flying on a cannonball!



CONCLUSIONS

Highly recommended! This is a really nice kit, suitable for both experts and beginners. The good quality of this release grants nice detail, great fitting and ease of building (I didn't use any filler at all). People who are happy with raised gear and closed cockpit, skipping the internals, may possibly get the thing built in less than one hour! Pros, on the other hand, will appreciate structural details that allow to realize, I.E., a diorama showing a semi-built plane (just like many that were found in real life). A state-of-the-art decals sheet is chocolate on the cake. 8)
So, if you like the plane, you'll love this kit. Beware, though: with its unique profile, along with its huge size, this is likely to become one of the most eye-catching models among your 1/72 warbirds display! :mrgreen:

In the following picture, you can see the size of the model compared with Revell's FW190F

---

Re: 1/72 Go-229 Revell + kit review - Deutschmark - 26.09.2011

Nice build great review !!!
Cant get over how big the front wheel is... hock: :lol:

Deutschmark

---

Re: 1/72 Go-229 Revell + kit review - LeBigTed - 03.10.2011

Wow !!! Another good review for a nice bird !

Congrats !!!

Ted

---

Re: 1/72 Go-229 Revell + kit review - KG64_Cnopicilin - 03.10.2011

Nice weathering on the bottom!

I like these reviews and especially your models

---

Re: 1/72 Go-229 Revell + kit review - RadPig94 - 03.10.2011

I've always liked Revell

---