08.03.2011, 15:14
F-86F P.A.N.
THE PLANE
The F-86 Sabre needs no introduction. Let's just say that, according to a NATO exchange program, the AMI (Aeronautica Militare Italiana) received 179 Mk.4 Sabres manufactured by Canadair. These planes served in many Squadrons, including the "Lancieri Neri" and "Cavallino Rampante" aerobatic teams. When, in 1960, the Pattuglia Acrobatica Nazionale "Frecce Tricolori" was born, it was equipped with Sabres.
![[Image: 684e1e6433db39f2f602f82a5c40b2f889f15597...9ba76g.jpg]](http://www.mediafire.com/imgbnc.php/684e1e6433db39f2f602f82a5c40b2f889f155977c4ea36366c11bc5eaf89ba76g.jpg)
IN THE BOX
Looking at the 4 sprues (3 grey + 1 transparent) the first impression is positive. No flash, recessed panels, detailed parts and overall good quality. Then you notice the molded ACADEMY logos and you know why. :mrgreen:
There are several unused parts (including leading edge slats), so the sprues probably come from a multi-version kit. Anyway, as I said before, the only provided decals are for the P.A.N. version. Decals include numbers and serials for every plane in the formation, but no maintenence markings (I'm nor sure if this is correct or an omission)
![[Image: 1afd439bbdd2681b3d804511a0c5979a2b2aafaa...12896g.jpg]](http://www.mediafire.com/imgbnc.php/1afd439bbdd2681b3d804511a0c5979a2b2aafaa9e7421a4ee2fbd30efb512896g.jpg)
BUILDING
The first step is the construction of the cockpit-airduct block. the internal air duct is split in two pieces: the lower half includes the front gear bay, while the upper half includes cockpit side panels and pedals. Stick, gauges, assembled seat and rear panel must be glued on it.
Now, you immediately face a little challenge: the two halves of the air duct have pins to fix in the correct position; unfortunately, these pins and their holes are molded on the INTERNAL side of the duct. I kept them as they were and, once the model is finished, they remain somewhat visible as "pillars" protruding from duct sides, so you may consider removing them to flatten the internal surface. Anyway, the flaw will be visible only by looking closely inside the air intake, therefore it's up to your judgement if it's worth the extra work.
There's a flat panel closing the rear of the air duct. Instructions are to paint it with aluminium/silver; but you could as well paint it black. Personally, i draw a fan on it!
But again, this is a "only-if-you-look-inside-the-hole" detail.
Now it's time to join the fuselage halves... but don't forget the golden rule, TRY DRY FITTING FIRST! You must check the fitting of the rear "pipe" with the internal of the exhaust and, more important, of the cockpit-duct block. First, if you plan to build the plane wheels down, remember to add some weight inside the nose (instructions say at least 10 grammes), or else your model will be sitting on its tail. Then, make sure both cockpit and front gear bay match correctly their respective "slots" in the fuselage.
NOTE FOR DARING MODELERS: if you think you're good enough (I didn't take the risk), there's a chance of getting this model with a sliding canopy, but you must do it before enclosing the cockpit inside the fuselage. At this point, the rear of the cockpit is a flat horizontal panel with a "rail". The piece featuring the radio, which is supposed to slide back and forward together with the bubble canopy, has a pin that goes into that rail to help fixing it either in open or closed position. Now, if you just put the pin inside the rail and fix something broader on its tip to prevent the pin from exiting, you will have the radio piece sliding free and so, later, the canopy!
But remember: I DIDN'T DO THAT, as this is likely to create complications both in canopy fitting and painting. And, if your internal modification breaks once the fuselage is closed, you can still glue the canopy fixed, sure, but you'll also be able to play your model like a "maraca" with the broken pin dancing free inside it! So, FOLLOW THIS HINT AT OWN RISK! :wink:
Back to the "standard" building now. Assemblying the wings is an easy job, just remember to drill holes for pylons if you want to add droptanks. The gear bay piece doesn't have a perfect fitting, but no real problems here. The fuselage-wings joint is good, I didn't use any filler. The nose air intake goes on simply, too. The tailplanes require a little attention, because they are not ambidextrous and must be "manually" set at the correct inclination. This is also the moment to glue windshield and canopy, whether you have built the stock or the "modded" one. Pay a little attention when glueing piece 34c onto the radio piece: don't let it protrude forward, or it will prevent the canopy from fitting in closed position.
It's now time for undercarriage and air brakes. Both of them (and their bays) have a good detail level and, as in most cases, are optimized for extended position. If you build them closed, rear wheels panels and airbrakes need some slicing to fit properly.
The only external loadout option is a pair of droptanks. If you want to add them, you should only mount the pylons on the tanks at this point. DON'T attach the pylons under the wings now, or you will have a terrible time with decals! You can leave this as the last part.
![[Image: 75851849540eac7152ac19631f7152024f197969...35806g.jpg]](http://www.mediafire.com/imgbnc.php/75851849540eac7152ac19631f7152024f1979699b123b96f8e90df32f7335806g.jpg)
PAINTING AND DECALS
Painting the P.A.N. livery shouldn't be a tough matter: the upper side of the plane is completely blue, the belly is aluminium silver, and there are decals for the whole lower surface of both wings and tailplanes, which are fully covered with the green-white-red bands of the Italian flag.
The instructions sheet defines the blue as "Blue Angel Blue (gloss)". I've Googled around for actual surviving Sabres in P.A.N. colors: I've found a few pics, and they showed a variety of blue tints. So my advice is: choose a blue tint and use it for all three models, and you won't do wrong!
Once in a while, I have good news about the decals: I found them to be EXCELLENT (hooray!), probably also because they must be recent. Given my past experience with large decals always breaking up, I was prepared to paint green-white-red bands under the wings; instead, even those wing-sized flags were a pleasure to apply. All decals required little diving time, lifted uniformly and stuck well while allowing for repositioning if needed. Someone could find them to be slightly thick, but I'd be pleased with such decals any day. Mind one thing only: the instruction sheet indications about wings/fuselage roundels are inverted. Actually, larger roundels (decals n° 5) are for wings, and smaller ones for the fuselage.
CONCLUSIONS
Nice one! This kit shows the usual Academy quality. Quick builders will appreciate the lack of flaws and fitting problems (and the user-friendly decals), and pros will find a good level of detail to start from for further enhancements.
I'll be back when the next kit is finished!
THE PLANE
The F-86 Sabre needs no introduction. Let's just say that, according to a NATO exchange program, the AMI (Aeronautica Militare Italiana) received 179 Mk.4 Sabres manufactured by Canadair. These planes served in many Squadrons, including the "Lancieri Neri" and "Cavallino Rampante" aerobatic teams. When, in 1960, the Pattuglia Acrobatica Nazionale "Frecce Tricolori" was born, it was equipped with Sabres.
IN THE BOX
Looking at the 4 sprues (3 grey + 1 transparent) the first impression is positive. No flash, recessed panels, detailed parts and overall good quality. Then you notice the molded ACADEMY logos and you know why. :mrgreen:
There are several unused parts (including leading edge slats), so the sprues probably come from a multi-version kit. Anyway, as I said before, the only provided decals are for the P.A.N. version. Decals include numbers and serials for every plane in the formation, but no maintenence markings (I'm nor sure if this is correct or an omission)
BUILDING
The first step is the construction of the cockpit-airduct block. the internal air duct is split in two pieces: the lower half includes the front gear bay, while the upper half includes cockpit side panels and pedals. Stick, gauges, assembled seat and rear panel must be glued on it.
Now, you immediately face a little challenge: the two halves of the air duct have pins to fix in the correct position; unfortunately, these pins and their holes are molded on the INTERNAL side of the duct. I kept them as they were and, once the model is finished, they remain somewhat visible as "pillars" protruding from duct sides, so you may consider removing them to flatten the internal surface. Anyway, the flaw will be visible only by looking closely inside the air intake, therefore it's up to your judgement if it's worth the extra work.
There's a flat panel closing the rear of the air duct. Instructions are to paint it with aluminium/silver; but you could as well paint it black. Personally, i draw a fan on it!
But again, this is a "only-if-you-look-inside-the-hole" detail.Now it's time to join the fuselage halves... but don't forget the golden rule, TRY DRY FITTING FIRST! You must check the fitting of the rear "pipe" with the internal of the exhaust and, more important, of the cockpit-duct block. First, if you plan to build the plane wheels down, remember to add some weight inside the nose (instructions say at least 10 grammes), or else your model will be sitting on its tail. Then, make sure both cockpit and front gear bay match correctly their respective "slots" in the fuselage.
NOTE FOR DARING MODELERS: if you think you're good enough (I didn't take the risk), there's a chance of getting this model with a sliding canopy, but you must do it before enclosing the cockpit inside the fuselage. At this point, the rear of the cockpit is a flat horizontal panel with a "rail". The piece featuring the radio, which is supposed to slide back and forward together with the bubble canopy, has a pin that goes into that rail to help fixing it either in open or closed position. Now, if you just put the pin inside the rail and fix something broader on its tip to prevent the pin from exiting, you will have the radio piece sliding free and so, later, the canopy!
But remember: I DIDN'T DO THAT, as this is likely to create complications both in canopy fitting and painting. And, if your internal modification breaks once the fuselage is closed, you can still glue the canopy fixed, sure, but you'll also be able to play your model like a "maraca" with the broken pin dancing free inside it! So, FOLLOW THIS HINT AT OWN RISK! :wink:
Back to the "standard" building now. Assemblying the wings is an easy job, just remember to drill holes for pylons if you want to add droptanks. The gear bay piece doesn't have a perfect fitting, but no real problems here. The fuselage-wings joint is good, I didn't use any filler. The nose air intake goes on simply, too. The tailplanes require a little attention, because they are not ambidextrous and must be "manually" set at the correct inclination. This is also the moment to glue windshield and canopy, whether you have built the stock or the "modded" one. Pay a little attention when glueing piece 34c onto the radio piece: don't let it protrude forward, or it will prevent the canopy from fitting in closed position.
It's now time for undercarriage and air brakes. Both of them (and their bays) have a good detail level and, as in most cases, are optimized for extended position. If you build them closed, rear wheels panels and airbrakes need some slicing to fit properly.
The only external loadout option is a pair of droptanks. If you want to add them, you should only mount the pylons on the tanks at this point. DON'T attach the pylons under the wings now, or you will have a terrible time with decals! You can leave this as the last part.
PAINTING AND DECALS
Painting the P.A.N. livery shouldn't be a tough matter: the upper side of the plane is completely blue, the belly is aluminium silver, and there are decals for the whole lower surface of both wings and tailplanes, which are fully covered with the green-white-red bands of the Italian flag.
The instructions sheet defines the blue as "Blue Angel Blue (gloss)". I've Googled around for actual surviving Sabres in P.A.N. colors: I've found a few pics, and they showed a variety of blue tints. So my advice is: choose a blue tint and use it for all three models, and you won't do wrong!
Once in a while, I have good news about the decals: I found them to be EXCELLENT (hooray!), probably also because they must be recent. Given my past experience with large decals always breaking up, I was prepared to paint green-white-red bands under the wings; instead, even those wing-sized flags were a pleasure to apply. All decals required little diving time, lifted uniformly and stuck well while allowing for repositioning if needed. Someone could find them to be slightly thick, but I'd be pleased with such decals any day. Mind one thing only: the instruction sheet indications about wings/fuselage roundels are inverted. Actually, larger roundels (decals n° 5) are for wings, and smaller ones for the fuselage.
CONCLUSIONS
Nice one! This kit shows the usual Academy quality. Quick builders will appreciate the lack of flaws and fitting problems (and the user-friendly decals), and pros will find a good level of detail to start from for further enhancements.
I'll be back when the next kit is finished!